Mark Seymour - Reference and Resources

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Reference: Ginetta G40 Maintenance Routines & Known Issues

The following routines are my personal view of when to maintain components of a G40 car used on track.

Oil changes

  • Approx. every 2,000 - 3,000 miles

Brake fluid change / bleed

  • Every one to three track days (see next bullet). Use a high-quality 8mm spanner, e.g. Snap-On, for bleed valves as they tend to stick and can snap off easily, especially at the rear. Also, don't overtighten, I use just past finger tight. See also Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes Spec.
  • The front brakes get much more use than the rear, and I find that the front fluid needs changing every track day, whereas the rear fluid looks in reasonable condition after many track days.
  • For brake fluid specs, see Reference: Ginetta G40 Maintenance Specs.

Brake pad and disc change

  • Brake pads glaze quite quickly and brake performance is then reduced. You can reduce glazing by proper bedding in and limiting track time to e.g. 20 mins. Discs may also glaze, but I think the pads are more of an issue. See also Description: Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes for suggestions on brake variations to reduce overheating.

Spanner check

Before and/or during a track day, test the tightness or level of the following in particular:

  • Bolts holding the alternator
  • Bolts through the wishbones at the front
  • Wires into the alternator and on other side of engine to the starter motor (they route behind the engine, between these two components)
  • Clips holding the airbox together (they can come off and you'll fail a noise test for induction noise)
  • Exhaust clamps - just after the manifold, 1/3 along the side pipe, at the joint by the rear wheel
  • Exhaust bungs - two rubber bungs / ties holding the exhaust to the frame behind the passenger-side rear wheel - these often break or just work loose and come off
  • Clips holding the boots on the CV joints at the rear
  • Wheel bolt torque to 80 n/m
  • Oil and other fluid levels
  • Tyre pressures equal all around
  • Damper settings equal side to side
  • Hose clips on the cooling system (use a flexi handle socket rather than a screwdriver)
  • Hose clips on the fuel line at the syphon valve (on the bulkhead above the pedal box). I have had one leak here.
  • Mounting bolts holding the differential to the frame (tighten, see bottom of page for picture)

Oil catch tank

  • Empty the oil catch tank after every track day

Air filter

  • Remove, clean (with warm, soapy water) and re-dry the air filter after every four track days

Air conditioning

  • Run the air conditioning to cold once a month, assuming you want to keep it in working condition

Start-up / battery

I would start the car once a fortnight at least, to keep the battery up, loosen the engine and get the water system flowing.

New Ginetta G40s are supplied with a trickle charger, which plugs into the connector in the boot. See Reference: Ginetta G40 Electrics.

Known issues (bearing in mind this is a racing car, so some of these things will happen regularly)

  • Exhaust movement (over time, the middle clamp below the passenger door allows movement of the system backwards, into the left-rear tyre)
  • Throttle sticking when engine hot e.g. in traffic - if this happens regularly, check the throttle position sensor (TPS) on the front end of the throttle body / linkage
  • Alternator weakness (bearing breakdown)
  • Alternator upper mounting bolt breakages
  • Wiring around the alternator - cable corrosion and breakages, possibly because they are too short or un-sheathed
  • Fuse changes very difficult (old dashboard)
  • Fuel gauge is not accurate (cannot be relied upon)
  • Turn indicators stop working - relay comes loose, push back in (new dashboard)
  • Turn indicators stop working at front (fast flash on dashboard) - bulb mounting comes loose in headlight pod
  • Do not use a plug-in 12V compressor for inflating tyres; it will blow a 5A fuse and stop the car starting
  • Brake bleed screw on rear calipers seize up, particularly on the side near to exhaust so do not over-tighten
  • Rear-view mirror falls off, if stored in non-heated garage or in direct sunlight
  • Windscreen will crack easily, as the fit seems to be under a lot of tension and needs a release (caused by stones on track or jacking up the car unevenly)
  • Door hinge mountings break down and door drops out of line. The mounting for the lower hinge needs strengthening in a car more than about one year old.
  • Clutch is single-plate and can't take repeated practice starts
  • Starter motor locks after a track session (when hot) or when battery is low (during storage). I'm not sure if this is a solenoid issue or the starter motor itself, but so far, it has resolved itself on my car, by repeated pushing of the start button. It may be due to corrosion of the earth cable between the alternator and solenoid, causing resistance and lack of power to the solenoid.
  • Differential mounting bolts come loose (need regular tightening - 10 mm hexagon key to approx 25 n/m - I tighten them also during lunch on a track day - You'll notice a clonking sound after about 40 laps, which means they need tightening)
  • Rear wishbone joints at the wheel side have worn on my G40 after about 5,000 miles (of mostly track use, but some rough, a.k.a. British roads).

See also