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Ginetta G40 Maintenance Routines (Reference)

The following routines describe checks and maintenance for a car that is regularly used on track.

Oil changes

  • Approx. every 2,000 - 3,000 miles

Brake fluid change (or caliper bleed)

  • Every one to three track days (see next bullet). Use high-quality 8mm spanner, e.g. Snap-On, for bleed valves as they tend to stick and can snap off easily, especially at the rear - see also Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes Spec.
  • The front brakes get much more use than the rear, and I find that the front fluid needs changing every track day, ideally, whereas the rear fluid looks in reasonable condition after many track days (i.e. front fluid is black and rear fluid is clear).

Brake pad and disc change

  • Brake pads replaced if more than half worn
  • Brake discs and pads replaced if overheated and glazed (avoid glazing by limiting track time to e.g. 20 mins). There is a minimum thickness for the discs of 22mm.

Spanner check

Before any track excursion (or during a track day for diff bolts), test the tightness or level of the following in particular:

  • Bolts holding the alternator
  • Bolts through the wishbones at the front
  • Wires into the alternator and on other side of engine to starter motor
  • Clips holding the airbox together (they can come off and you'll fail a noise test for induction noise)
  • Exhaust clamps - just after the manifold, 1/3 along the side pipe, at the joint by the rear wheel
  • Exhaust ties - two rubber ties holding the exhaust to the frame behind the passenger-side rear wheel - these often break or just work loose and come off
  • Clips holding the boots on the CV joints at the rear
  • Wheel bolt torque
  • Oil and other fluid levels
  • Tyre pressures equal all around
  • Damper settings equal side to side
  • Hose clips on the cooling system
  • Mounting bolts on differential (tighten, see bottom of page for picture)

Oil catch tank

  • Empty the oil catch tank after every track day

Air filter

  • Remove, clean (with warm, soapy water) and re-dry the air filter after every four track days

Air conditioning

  • Run the air conditioning to cold once a month

Known issues (bearing in mind this is a racing car, so some of these things will happen regularly)

  • Exhaust movement (over time, the middle clamp below the passenger door allows movement of the system backwards, into the left-rear tyre)
  • Throttle sticking when engine hot e.g. in traffic - if this happens regularly, check the throttle position sensor (TPS) on the front end of the throttle body / linkage
  • Alternator weakness (bearing breakdown)
  • Alternator upper mounting bolt breakages
  • Alternator battery charge cable breakages
  • Fuse changes very difficult (old dashboard)
  • Turn indicators stop working - relay comes loose, push back in (new dashboard)
  • Turn indicators stop working at front (fast flash on dashboard) - bulb mounting comes loose in headlight pod
  • Do not use a plug-in 12V compressor for inflating tyres; it will blow a 5A fuse and stop the car starting
  • Brake bleed screw on rear calipers seize, particularly on the side near to exhaust so do not over-tighten
  • Rear-view mirror falls off, if stored in non-heated garage
  • Clutch is single-plate and can't take repeated practice starts
  • Differential mounting bolts come loose (need regular tightening - 10 mm hexagon key to approx 25 n/m - I tighten them also during lunch on a track day - You'll notice a clonking sound after about 40 laps, which means they need tightening)

See also