Mark Seymour - Reference and Resources

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Ginetta G40 Maintenance Routines (Reference)

The following routines describe checks and maintenance for a car that is regularly used on track.

Oil changes

  • Approx. every 2,000 - 3,000 miles

Brake fluid change (or caliper bleed)

  • Every one to three track days (see next bullet). Use a high-quality 8mm spanner, e.g. Snap-On, for bleed valves as they tend to stick and can snap off easily, especially at the rear - see also Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes Spec.
  • The front brakes get much more use than the rear, and I find that the front fluid needs changing every track day, whereas the rear fluid looks in reasonable condition after many track days.

Brake pad and disc change

  • Brake pads replaced if glazed and not performing (avoid glazing by proper bedding in and limiting track time to e.g. 20 mins). Discs will also glaze, but I think the pads are more of an issue.

Spanner check

Before and/or during a track day, test the tightness or level of the following in particular:

  • Bolts holding the alternator
  • Bolts through the wishbones at the front
  • Wires into the alternator and on other side of engine to starter motor
  • Clips holding the airbox together (they can come off and you'll fail a noise test for induction noise)
  • Exhaust clamps - just after the manifold, 1/3 along the side pipe, at the joint by the rear wheel
  • Exhaust bungs - two rubber bungs / ties holding the exhaust to the frame behind the passenger-side rear wheel - these often break or just work loose and come off
  • Clips holding the boots on the CV joints at the rear
  • Wheel bolt torque to 80 n/m
  • Oil and other fluid levels
  • Tyre pressures equal all around
  • Damper settings equal side to side
  • Hose clips on the cooling system
  • Hose clips on the fuel line at the syphon valve (on the bulkhead above the pedal box). I have had one leak here.
  • Mounting bolts holding the differential to the frame (tighten, see bottom of page for picture)

Oil catch tank

  • Empty the oil catch tank after every track day

Air filter

  • Remove, clean (with warm, soapy water) and re-dry the air filter after every four track days

Air conditioning

  • Run the air conditioning to cold once a month, assuming you want to keep it in working condition

Start-up / battery

I would start the car once a fortnight at least, to keep the battery up and loosen parts such as the starter motor, which tends to get a bit locked (although that might be due to a low battery).

Known issues (bearing in mind this is a racing car, so some of these things will happen regularly)

  • Exhaust movement (over time, the middle clamp below the passenger door allows movement of the system backwards, into the left-rear tyre)
  • Throttle sticking when engine hot e.g. in traffic - if this happens regularly, check the throttle position sensor (TPS) on the front end of the throttle body / linkage
  • Alternator weakness (bearing breakdown)
  • Alternator upper mounting bolt breakages
  • Alternator battery charge cable breakages
  • Fuse changes very difficult (old dashboard)
  • Turn indicators stop working - relay comes loose, push back in (new dashboard)
  • Turn indicators stop working at front (fast flash on dashboard) - bulb mounting comes loose in headlight pod
  • Do not use a plug-in 12V compressor for inflating tyres; it will blow a 5A fuse and stop the car starting
  • Brake bleed screw on rear calipers seize up, particularly on the side near to exhaust so do not over-tighten
  • Rear-view mirror falls off, if stored in non-heated garage or in direct sunlight
  • Windscreen will crack easily, as the fit seems to be under a lot of tension and needs a release (caused by stones on track or even jacking up unevenly)
  • Door hinge mountings break down and door drops out of line. The mounting for the lower hinge needs strengthening in a car more than about one year old.
  • Clutch is single-plate and can't take repeated practice starts
  • Starter motor locks after a track session (when hot) or when battery is low (during storage). I'm not sure if this is a solenoid issue or the starter motor itself, but so far, it has resolved itself on my car, by repeated pushing of the start button.
  • Differential mounting bolts come loose (need regular tightening - 10 mm hexagon key to approx 25 n/m - I tighten them also during lunch on a track day - You'll notice a clonking sound after about 40 laps, which means they need tightening)

See also