Reference: Ginetta G40 Maintenance Routines & Known Issues
This is my view of when to maintain components of a G40 track car.
Oil changes
- Approx. every 2,000 - 3,000 miles
Brake fluid
- Bleed brakes for every track day. Bleed valves tend to stick and can snap off easily, especially at the rear. Don't over-tighten, I use just past finger tight. See also Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes Spec.
- For brake fluid specs, see Reference: Ginetta G40 Maintenance Specs.
Brake pad and disc change
- Brake pads can glaze quite quickly. See Description: Ginetta G40 Wheels, Tyres & Brakes for suggestions on brake variations to reduce overheating.
Spanner check
Check the following in particular:
- Bolts and brackets holding the alternator
- Bolts through the wishbones at the front
- Wires into the alternator and on other side of engine to the starter motor
- Clips holding the airbox together
- Exhaust clamps and rubbers - after the manifold, 1/3 along the side, at the joint by the rear wheel
- Clips holding the boots on the CV joints at the rear
- Wheel bolt torque to 80 n/m
- Oil and other fluid levels
- Hose clips on the cooling system
- Hose clips on the fuel line at the syphon valve (on the bulkhead above the pedal box).
- Mounting bolts holding the differential to the frame (tighten, see bottom of page for picture)
Oil catch tank
- Empty the oil catch tank after every track day
Air filter
- Remove and clean with warm, soapy water every six months
Start-up / battery
New Ginetta G40s are supplied with a trickle charger, which plugs into the connector in the boot. See Reference: Ginetta G40 Electrics. Keep connected when the car is stored.
Known weaknesses
- Exhaust movement (over time, the middle clamp below the passenger door allows movement of the system backwards, into the left-rear tyre)
- Throttle sticking when engine hot e.g. in traffic - if this happens regularly, check the throttle position sensor (TPS) on the front end of the throttle body / linkage
- Alternator weakness (bearing breakdown)
- Alternator upper mounting bolt or bracket breakages. There is a replacement part for this bracket made of nylon.
- Wiring around the alternator - cable corrosion and breakages, possibly because they are too short or un-sheathed
- Fuse changes very difficult (old dashboard)
- Fuel gauge is not accurate
- Turn indicators stop working - relay comes loose, push back in (new dashboard)
- Turn indicators stop working at front (fast flash on dashboard) - bulb mounting comes loose in headlight pod
- Do not use a plug-in 12V compressor for inflating tyres; it will blow a 5A fuse and stop the car starting
- Brake bleed screw on rear calipers seize up, so don't over-tighten
- Rear-view mirror falls off, if stored in non-heated garage or in direct sunlight
- Windscreen will crack easily, as the fit seems to be under a lot of tension and needs a release (caused by gravel strikes on track or even jacking up the car unevenly)
- Door hinge mountings break down and door drops out of line. The mounting for the lower hinge needs strengthening.
- Clutch is single-plate and can't take repeated practice starts
- Starter motor locks after a track session (when hot) or when battery is low (during storage). I'm not sure if this is a solenoid issue or the starter motor itself, but so far, it has resolved itself on my car, by repeated pushing of the start button.
- Differential mounting bolts come loose (need regular tightening - 10 mm hexagon key to approx 25 n/m)
- Rear wishbone joints at the wheel side have worn on my G40 after about 5,000 miles.
See also